Please check our FAQ Page and the information below.

If you do not find what you are looking for there, submit your question to Ed by email to ed@rvtechstop.nospam.com (remove the .nospam to send) 

Due to the high volume of questions, we may not be able to respond to all of them individually.  

NOTE to all readers: There has been quite a lot of media coverage regarding the Firestone-Bridgestone tires. We agree that any manufacturer should warrant their products in that they should replace defective products or refund the purchase price. We also believe that consumers should be required to use the products safely. If you need a refresher, please read Tire Blowouts in the articles section.  Since the original article was published in 1994, we experienced a second front tire blowout. This time it was on the left front while we were traveling at 65 mph on eastbound I 71 and passing an eighteen wheeler. Anyone familiar with I 71 east of Louisville may remember that the eastbound side is very elevated so there is an extremely steep drop-off through the median. We were never even close to going into the median. Ed successfully steered the coach (47,000 bus) to safety on the right shoulder. Blowouts do not have to cause a catastrophic loss, whether the cause is a road hazard or a defective tire. All tires are made of rubber and can lose air at any time-protect yourself with driver education.

Another note: on the way home from the FMCA convention in Maine in August 2001, Ed had another blowout. This time the right front. He had the Howard Active Steering on and had little difficulty in controlling the coach and bringing it to a safe stop.

Is there anything on the market that will monitor the tire pressure from the inside of my motorhome? I have six wheels.

I am aware of four aftermart devices. Two are mounted inside the tire and use radio frequency to transmit a signal to the dash console. A third is a radio frequency device that screws on the valve stem. The fourth is a hard
wired sensor and monitor made by Preston Systems. I use the Preston System and it has performed flawlessly in over 150,000 miles of use. Please refer to the article, "Tire Sentry Tire Monitor." Preston had applied for and received the trademark name "Tire Sentry." However, there was some problem with another company who claimed they were already using it, so Preston Systems changed their product name to "Wheel Sentry."
The current valve stem mounted RF unit is a second design. We tested the first design at the same time we were initially testing the Preston. The RFunit did not perform well and was often in error. We received false alarms and it stopped working without warning because of discharged batteries. Rumor has it that it was taken off the market because of too many flat tires. Interestingly, it was advertised as having won many awards.
There is a revised RF unit, which was promised to me for testing about three years ago, but I have never received one. I have no working knowledge of those that are mounted inside the tire. These were also promised for
testing, but never received. In the past, I have read reviews in RV literature about the first design RF system and how well it worked. I noted that the articles did not include any performance data other than what was in the manufacturer's ad copy. We always use a product before we write a review and if a product does not perform to our standards, we do not publish an article. We do not want to be "Consumer Reports," and write bad reviews-we just don't publish at all. We never write about a product without first hand experience.
I have been very distressed about all of these products being advertised without extensive verification that they actually work in RV applications. I know this sounds harsh, but there are many situations encountered in an RV
that are not present in passenger cars or trucks. RF transmission can interfere with other onboard devices such as anti-lock braking systems. I have wondered why, despite repeated requests, manufacturers have failed to
send products for our evaluation. As you will note on our website, it is our policy to return the product to the manufacturer after the testing period, so I don't think the reason for not sending the units is due to costs. One
of the in-tire manufacturers has said that they are preparing a system for us to evaluate. Based on the poor track record of the first design RF devices, I worry that consumers may not be protected as well as some articles may suggest, and I also worry about the RV owner having a false sense of security. Nothing would make me happier than to test all these products and have them perform as well as the Preston System and then to write rave reviews about all of them.
BTW, the Preston System is used by Disney World and the Fort Worth Transit Authority.

I recently purchase a '79 Itasca and have been reading articles about obtaining a more stable ride in wind with air bags installed in the springs. I checked my suspension and no air bags. Can these be installed in a '79 Chevrolet chassis and is it advisable to do so?

Air bags are used in the front coil springs in the Chevrolet chassis to increase the weight carrying capacity at the front axle. With air bags, the P35 front suspension could be rated at 5,000 pounds. Air bags can be installed on almost all suspensions with coil springs but please check with the manufacturer for specific applications prior to purchase.
Improving the handling of a coach is a complex process involving the distribution of weight within the motorhome e.g. front axle weight, rear axle weight and side to side weight. It is advisable to weigh the coach at all four corners, if possible, and to do whatever you can to distribute the weight equally side to side and proportionally front to rear according to your axle ratings. Minimum tire pressure will be determined by the weight that the tires on each axle are carrying. It is possible to change the handling characteristics somewhat by varying tire pressure-similar to race cars. Generally, because a MH is not driven like a race car, the difference in handling is minor. Two other options can be installed which may improve handling, especially in cross winds. The first is a front and/or rear axle stabilizer bar. This will help minimize lean when cornering as in a cloverleaf. It is important that these devices be matched to the chassis because they will produce changes in how the coach handles by changing oversteer/understeer characteristics. The second is a steering stabilizer which helps diminish "road wander" and the effects of side forces. There are several manufacturers of steering stabilizers (Steer-safe, Safe-T plus, and Howard Active Steering), which vary in price and features. If I were looking to purchase stabilizer bars, I would follow manufacturer's recommendations and I would purchase those that had life time polyurethane bushings.
Our '86 Holiday Rambler motorhome, on a Chevy chassis, had air bags. It also had both a front and rear stabilizer and a steering damper. We added a steering stabilizer which did help to minimize the side movement of the coach when being passed by larger vehicles. When one of the air bags developed a leak, I replaced both with life time warranty bags. I had more trouble getting the old air bags out than getting the new ones in. The air bags come with adequate instructions and I did not think the job was complicated (once I got the old bags out).
The answer to your question: to improve the ride/handling in your MH you will probably have to consider several different items. The order of installation would be governed by the severity of the complaints. Use air bags to increase load capacity, axle stabilizers to decrease sway, and a steering stabilizer to improve steering. If I understand your complaint correctly, I would proceed with a steering stablizer first, air bags second, and axle stabilizers (if not already installed) third. I would follow manufacturers recommendations.

I would like to install full hookups at my residence. My problem is that I have found a dearth of information regarding sewer connections. Would you know where I can obtain the necessary components for a standard RV sewer connection?

Most of the components are available at home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowes. If you are not dumping into an existing sewer clean-out, you will have to plan the installation more carefully. The 3 inch pipe has to be installed with a very gradual fall line (1 inch of fall over 10'), otherwise liquids will move quickly and leave solids in the line. There should be no sharp turns-for instance you would use two 45 degree turns with a short straight run in between to make a right angle turn. The entire installation can be done using PVC (white) tubing and fittings. If you wish to use ABS (black), you would have to purchase those components from a plumbing supply or an RV distribution company via an RV dealer. Obviously this would be more expensive than the PVC from a discount building supply store. The straight upright line from the surface to the sewer line can be connected through a rubber sleeve. In case someone drives over the exposed dump site, the rubber sleeve will compress and prevent damage to the pipe below ground level. Depending upon where you live, you may or may not have to pay attention to frost lines. Again, your local home improvement store can advise you on that. I prefer planning an installation so that there will be no RV traffic over the sewer line. If this is not possible, I would try to protect the line by running it through a larger conduit. Also, if you are on a septic system rather than a city sewer, make sure to use chemicals that will not kill the bacteria in the septic tank. This is especially important if you have visitors. We have met people who feel this is not a problem, but I still prefer not to introduce a lot of chemicals into my septic system.

I currently own a 1990 Fleetwood Flair with a 460 Ford engine. My problem is, I have to add a quart of oil approximately every 500 miles. Two different mechanics have checked the engine and said the compression was above avg for a 460 Ford and could find nothing wrong with the engine. It runs great and does not leak or smoke. Both mechanics said that it is just using oil and don't worry about it. Is this oil consumption normal with a 460 Ford? I bought the motorhome with 18,000 miles on it about 6 months ago and began using 10-30 oil. Both mechanics suggested I switch to 15-40 which I did but nothing changed. Would it help to switch to 20-50?

I don't have a lot of personal experience with the 460 engine, so I checked with a service manager who does a lot of work on Ford and Chevy engines used in motorhomes. He advised me that:

1. It is not unusual for a Ford 460 to use less than 1 qt of oil from one oil change to the next. This assumes that oil changes are made at 3000 miles.
2. For warranty purposes, Ford does not consider oil consumption excessive until it becomes greater than 1 qt every 500 miles.
3. Assuming that compression testing is normal and no complaints of smoke in the exhaust and that the engine runs well, it is probably not worth while to rebuild the engine.
4. Some chassis have leakage problems associated with oil coolers (I assume yours is OK since you report no leaks)
5. It is very important to make sure the dip stick is calibrated correctly and the engine is not being overfilled.

My last gasoline motorhome engine was a 454 Chevrolet. It had an incorrect dip stick and when the oil level was kept full by the dip stick, oil consumption was excessive. Once I discovered the problem and kept the oil level at a quart low per the dip stick, oil consumption became normal. For that engine, normal was a qt every 700-1000 miles, depending upon the type of driving.
With regard to oil viscosity, I am a firm believer in following manufacturers recommendations. Altering the viscosity assumes that there is an oil leak to the ground or through the exhaust. I would check with Ford for their recommendations if that information is not in your owners manual.
If you determine that your dip stick is correct and the engine is not being over-filled, I would assume the mechanics are correct and the expense of mechanical repairs are not justified at this time.

On about 6/15/99, I was driving my 1998 Mountain Aire 37' motorhome westbound on I-40 about 50 miles west of Amarillo, Texas when it suddenly began to  violently shake. The chassis is a 1997 Ford F53 with about 30,000 miles at that time. I was towing a 1996 Blazer. The chassis has been routinely serviced per the manufacturers schedule and almost exclusively by Ford dealers. The weather was cool and dry, the road smooth and flat, and I was traveling with light traffic at about 70mph when the  event occurred. I immediately slowed to a stop at the side of the road. The shaking did not stop until my speed was very slow or completely stopped. I then got out
and inspected the chassis, expecting to find severe damage of some sort, but could find nothing out of order. After putting the interior back in order, I drove off again very carefully, but the problem never recurred. After
getting settled into an RV camp in California, I took the motorhome to a Ford dealer where no one had ever heard of this problem before. They supposedly could find nothing wrong with the chassis. Any suggestions as to what may have caused this event, and what to do to see that it does not happen again?

Ray

Hello Ray,
I suspect you may have experienced shimmy caused by a suspension with a large amount of positive caster.  A high degree of caster is often used in motorhomes in an effort to help them track in a straight line.  The typical
experience when this occurs is to have a violent shimmy which does not go away with change of speed. (A shimmy caused by an out of balance tire will change with speed.) The shimmy goes away either by stopping and restarting or slowing to a crawl and then regaining speed.  It usually is caused by hitting some irregularity in the road such as a small pothole, etc.  Often a vehicle inspection does not reveal any failed components or out of spec adjustments.  Through the years, manufacturers who have been aware of this problem have tried to use a steering damper to correct it.  A second solution to the problem is to reduce the caster setting of the front axle.
How this is done will vary according to the type of axle and front suspension on your vehicle.  Decreasing the caster may tend to make the coach wander a little more. Under these circumstances it might be desirable
to try a steering stabilizer which includes a shock absorber which can function as a steering damper in  addition to being spring-loaded to help stabilize the vehicle in case of a rapid air loss in a front tire.  Be sure to read the article  about the correct procedure if you experience a tire blow-out (increasing power to the drive wheels).  You may find success by having the caster setting checked and adjusting it to the minimum specification (if it is not already there).

I know one suspension vendor-Spectrac Suspension in Gilbert, AZ 602-545-5533- who is aware of this problem and can probably offer a solution.  They have an 800 number, but I cannot locate it right now.

Larry writes:  Some time ago I saw a diagram for fabricating a unit that gives an audible signal when the turn signal is on. Could you help? Thanks. Like your web site.

Through the years I have seen several circuits for this audio signal. However, when I installed one on my own coach, it was too difficult to find them again, so I proceeded from scratch as detailed below.
This circuit may be similar to some that have been described. It is helpful to have a wiring diagram for the dash board of your coach. If one is not available, it is possible to proceed without it.
The circuit needs a 12V or 24V signal voltage to a buzzer when the turn signal is activated. A convenient source for this signal is the turn indicator lamp on the dash. These are usually easy to access for bulb replacement. Most that I have seen have a 12V or 24V supply to the center terminal of the lamp and ground to the base of the lamp. This can be confirmed by connecting the red lead of a voltmeter to the wire going to the center terminal and the black lead to ground or to the wire going to the base of the lamp socket. When the turn signal is turned on, the voltmeter should pulse with the lighting of the indicator lamp. If you have a wiring diagram, you will not have to confirm the supply. Once the supply is verified, use two inexpensive diodes connected to the wire going to the center teminal. Strip a small section of the wire about three inches away from each of the lamps to connect the diodes. Be careful not to short circuit the diodes or any exposed wires. These diodes act as one-way directional switches. Temporarily connect a diode to one of the wires and confirm that the 12/24 V signal can be measured with a voltmeter. If there is no signal, reverse the direction of the diode. The diode is marked with a black stripe at one end. Once the direction is determined, connect a second diode to the opposite turn signal indicator lamp wire. The ends of the two diodes are then joined together. This allows a voltage signal to come from either indicator light which provides a 12 or 24V signal. This signal is used to power a buzzer element. Since the diodes are acting as one-way switches, they will prevent the voltage signal from going from one indicator lamp to the other. Some dash boards may have a single turn signal indicator lamp which is activated on any turn. In this case, the diodes are already included in the wiring harness of the dash and all that is required is a voltage signal line from the wire to the turn signal indicator lamp, center terminal.
Radio Shack makes several 1 amp or 3 amp diodes (#276-1101 or 1102 -$0.49 for two) Higher rated and more expensive diodes are not required, but are acceptable. Buzzers may be piezzo, electric or magnetic and range from $1.29 to $11.00. If you have a 24V system, you are limited to a buzzer that will tolerate 24V. If it is a 12V system, you have numerous options in the $1-3 range. Choose one you like and that is loud enough for you to hear. Ask the Radio shack personnel to hook up a voltage source so you can hear the magnetic, electric and piezzo types-or buy one of each and return the ones you don't want. (Make sure Radio Shack will take them back).
Connect the positive wire on the buzzer (usually red) to where the two diodes are joined. Connect the negative wire (usually black) to ground. If you wish to disable the buzzer, a small push button (SPST) switch can be inserted between the negative wire of the buzzer and ground.
Solder all connections and insulate with shrink wrap or electrical tape.
It is a good habit to turn off the 12/24V supply to the dash or to remove any fuses to dash board circuits when making the connections. Be sure you know where the fuses for the turn signals are and have a spare on hand. I have assumed that you are comfortable using a voltmeter and know how to prevent short circuits and how to properly solder and insulate connections. If my assumptions are incorrect, please contact me again if you have any questions about any of the above.
Thank you for your comments regarding the web site and for visiting RvTechstop.

Frances asks:  My daughter owns a l984 Rockwood Class C motorhome. We find the seatbelts are way too tight to go around a normal size person. The present seatbelts do not match the colors so we assume the prior owner bought new ones. However they're too short. Is there a way I could lengthen them? I have the old seatbelts that went around the waist, would I be able to use these belts in their place? Also is it difficult to remove them?

The method of attaching seatbelts, especially in the 80's era, varied widely. Thus, it is difficult to give you exact instructions. I am also not clear about whether you are talking about lap belts or lap with a shoulder harness. The seatbelts may be attached to the seat frame or by bolts to other structural members (frame, floor, side wall). A retractor mechanism is usually attached as an assembly and often the shoulder harness component is routed through a pulley attached to the sidewall structure. In short, they are removable , but the procedure will vary from vehicle to vehicle.  Also, universal seatbelt replacements are available from J.C. Whitney, (800-726-4466). These range in price from $14 for standard lap belts, $36 for retractable lap belts, and $68 for retractable lap and shoulder belts.  Other belts range in prices up to $100. There is also a section for seat belts specifically for vans and RVs. These range from $25 to $70. There are numerous selections so you may want to get their catalog.
As a side note, It is important to inspect how the seat is attached to the   structural members of the vehicle and how the seat belt is attached. In an accident, the seat and/or the belts may become dislodged which would limit
any protection. Often the seats were installed by the RV manufacturer. The fact that the present belts are short may indicate that they have been installed in a different location than originally intended. Lastly, it is possible to extend seatbelts if you have seatbelt webbing, special nylon thread and a heavy duty sewing machine. This is not recommended because seatbelt fabric is designed with certain stretch characteristics and it is not likely that you would be successful in getting extra seatbelt webbing with the same characteristics. In conclusion, new seatbelts can usually be installed in a reliable manner and this is preferable to extending existing belts.

I own a 1994 F250 atoumatic with a tow package and am looking into purchasing a Banks system to enhance my pulling performance. Is it as good as everbody says , Is it worth the investment????

I have no personal experience with any of the Banks products, but I do know several people who have used them and they seem satisfied with the product. I also know it is heavily marketed.
Before doing any conversions, I would personally check with the vehicle manufacture regarding any warranty issues and any recommendations for adding this equipment. My understanding of the Magnusen-Moss law differs radically from what is described on the Banks web site. I would prefer to have OEM approval before making changes. Having said that, gasoline engine manufacturers are under government restrictions that are not applied to after-market vendors and there are times when the after-market product is exactly what the OEM would make if it were permitted under law. The situation changes with diesel engines. These engines are often paired with transmissions and other drive-train components as well as cooling systems so changing any one component may put it over-spec with regard to the total package. It is possible to substantially increase torque beyond the tolerance of the other components. Additionally, the warranty is much longer and transferable to second owners so you want to make sure there are no warranty conflicts.
My recommendations are that you check with the vehicle manufacturer, personally verify all the ratings of the various components and do not exceed the lowest specification.
It is very much better to determine your needs on the basis of what you desire to tow and then to purchase a truck that meets those needs, as opposed to trying to patch up an underpowered or under-capacity truck. Please see the article by Bill Farlow that was published in RVing America recently. Although I don't necessarily agree with torching and welding frames, I agree with the overall message of the article. I have seen too many people on the side of the road because they attempted to use under-capacity components in an over-capacity application.
I hope this information helps you find your answers.

James F. asks about the Auto-Former Voltage Booster: Do you know of anyone who has used one because I'm interested in purchasing one and don't want to be the first. They are sold by Camping World.

I am hesitant to recommend a product we have not personally used.  I have an industrial isolation transformer which I have never used for RV purposes. It weighs 43 pounds and accepts input voltages from 95 to 130 and from 190 to 260 while maintaining an output of 120 volts at 60 cycles rated at 500 VA (Volt Amps).  I am sure that this unit is conservatively rated.

I believe the advertising lists the Auto-former as being made of UL approved parts.  This does not necessarily mean that the finished unit has been UL certified. It weighs just 27 pounds and has a maximum output of 3600 watts continuous. There is the possibility that technology using lighter weight components accounts for the weight difference as compared to the industrial unit.  The bigger question is whether the output of the industrial unit is super conservatively rated while the Auto-former is rated to maximum specs. I have requested both detailed literature and a test unit from the Hughes Company. If we receive one, we will publish results.

For your records, the company is located at 504 N Spring Street "A", Lake Elsinore, CA 92530, 888-540-1504.   If I were buying a unit now, I would buy directly from the company. I would like to know from them what I could reasonably expect this unit to do and what the return options are if it does not perform as expected. It is warranted for three years but warranty and performance are two different things. Lastly, I prefer this method of dealing with low voltage situations, providing the unit works to capacity.  A power line monitor that indicates low voltage does not manage the problem but just shuts off the power.

Davi4147 writes:  We own a Toyota Sunrader, 1981 model. The frame is built by Toyota, the shell is built by a company called Gardner Pacific.  Some days go one of our wheelbearings blew out in the middle of the road and almost caused an accident. This, as we learned, happened due to a fault of the manufacturer, the load of the shell is too much for the frame. Some years ago there was a recall on these vehicles through the motorhome manufacturer and it was possible to get free parts to rebuld the frame.  Unfortunately we cannot locate the company Gardner Pacific anymore and we suspect that they may be out of business. Do you know where to get help?

I remember these vehicles and was concerned about the potential for overloading but I do not have any specific details.We researched the NHTSA site and found the recall. It appears that the recall was issued in 1991 and was effective for 8 years.  Go to http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recmmy1.cfm.   For the search criteria enter Gardner Pacific for the "Make" and enter 1981 in the year box.  You can call National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (1-888-DASH-2-DOT) and they can explain the recall and may be able to help you find Gardner-Pacific.  The RV Consumer Group, http:www//rv.org, may also be able to point you in the right direction.  If you learn anything, let us know in case anyone else has a similar problem.  Good luck.

Vic J. writes:  I currently have an older 23' travel trailer, pulled by an Astro van.  In the next year or so, I'll be looking at upgrading to a 5th wheel (24'-28"?) with a 3/4 ton extended cab pickup as the pull unit. Here's my question(s): It's my understanding and experience that power and fuel consumption are much  better with standard transmission than an automatic.  But I've heard there are "lockable" automatics out there made for trailer pulling, which allow you to lock in the drive gear and simulate a standard transmission on the highway, yet have the convenience of an automatic for "urban" manoevering. Is this true? What else is out there, and what advice would you give concerning transmissions and other features for pull vehicles?

A brief investigation revealed that Ford, Chevy, and Dodge have a lock-up transmission available. Trailer towing is not an area of my expertise  but in general, here is how I would proceed if I were looking for a truck for towing. I would first determine the maximum amount of weight I would be towing. The GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) of the truck must be greater than the weight of the truck + trailer and contents.  Be sure the trailer  value is a loaded weight-not a dry weight. Failure to adhere to this principle will lead to premature failure of engine/drivetrain/brakes/tires.  There will also be less than desireable performance.  This will be exaggerated in mountainous driving and is also a safety issue.  If I were choosing a truck for towing, I would first determine which trailer I wanted and then try to figure out which truck I needed. After choosing a manufacturer, I would then determine which model in regard to engine type, transmission-specifically requesting a lock-up transmission, rear axle, brakes, and tires.  If mountainous driving is going to be the rule, I would choose a diesel engine-this allows incorporating supplemental engine  braking. Please see the article about accessory  brakes.

We have heard of many people who choose an under-capacity truck and then pour more money into repairs than they would have spent if they had purchased the right truck in the first place.  This does not even consider the frustration and safety issues of having the wrong truck. 

Bill Farlow included many important considerations in selecting a pull vehicle in his article, "The Birth of Big Red", which was published in RVing America, May 15-June 15, 1999. 

Errol B. asks: Where do I start? I'm in the $50K range. What is the best avenue to take? New? Demo? Used?

This is a really big topic. It is the subject of a new article we are working on which we hope to have posted soon.   We have sent Errol a reply via email.  Until we get the article posted, we will answer urgent requests individually by email.

Don R. writes:  I have recently bought a 98 Chevy "Travel Quest" conversion van with "TV " top, raised roof.  We only intend to use it for short one or two-day camping trips but I would like to pop out one of the captain's chairs and set in a head with a porta-potty and lavatory, behind the drivers seat. The available space is about 3' by 4'.   I don't see anything in the few catalogs that I have received that is suitable.   Do you have any suggestions on how to manage this?

Dear Don:  I envision a cabinet in the available space where 1/2 would house the sink and the other 1/2 would house the potty.  On the potty side, a hinged top would open upward-much like a sewing machine cabinet- and the front would slide or swing open for access to the potty.   Most RV dealers will have a Coast Distribution Catalog or an RV Supplies & Accessories Catalog.  There is a water & sink kit, part # 21669 for around $100.00.  The kit includes a rocker pump, sink, tubing, & two 2-gallon plastic water tanks (fresh & grey). These items are also sold separately.    Self-contained porta-potties are available in most RV or marine stores.   Consolidated Plastics Co. catalog (800-362-1000) has 5-gallon plastic containers for under $10 each.  You might want to use these larger containers and buy the other components separately, but you will have to calculate the cost both ways.    Several styles of curtain track hardware by RECMAR is also in the Coast catalog.  This hardware can be mounted on the ceiling or onto a wood frame attached to the ceiling.  This track is used for side & windshield curtains and I see no reason why it could not be adapted as a privacy curtain for your project.  When not in use, the curtain would be secured to the wall and the "facilities"   would look like an ordinary cabinet.  Let us know how you complete this project.